Things to do in April: Lawn
□ Begin watering and mowing lawn . . . as needed, using the highest mower setting of 2-1/2 to 3 inches. Always stay off lawns that are soggy. Once the ground is firm and dry, rake vigorously with a metal or bamboo leaf rake (not plastic, which could damage the grass plants) or dethatch with a rented machine. Over-seed if needed.
□ Mow more often in April and May . . . when grass is growing vigorously. Your goal is to remove less than 1/3 the grass blade in each mowing. Leave grass clippings on the lawn to provide extra nutrients and organic matter. To prevent matting, use a mulching mower or just mow more frequently.
□ Avoid fertilizing the lawn . . . after mid-April. Spring and summer fertilization promotes lush leafy growth that is susceptible to drought and disease. If your lawn looks pale, a half-strength application of fertilizer ASAP may help without over-stimulating growth.
□ Control weeds . . . before they flower and set seed to avoid future weed problems. It is easy to pull weeds now when the soil is moist from winter and spring rain.
□ Control moles . . . in the lawn and garden by trapping. They are not able to consume baits or chewing gum, so avoid these useless control measures.
Things to do in April: Landscape
□ Perform late-winter cleanup chores . . . Rake the lawn, cut back faded plants, edge and groom landscape beds. Do not add fresh mulch until late spring or early summer, after the soil has dried out a bit.
□ Plant a tree for Arbor Day (April 27 in 2012) . . . Dig a hole slightly shallower than the root ball, but 2-5 times as wide. Place the tree in the hole so that the top of the root ball is about 2 inches above grade. Use the original soil to backfill, mounding evenly up to meet the rootball. Water well. Apply not more than 2 inches of mulch, and do not allow the mulch to rest against the trunk of the plant.
□ Soak bareroot plants . . . for up to eight hours and cleanly trim off any broken or diseased roots before planting.
□ Cut back ornamental grasses and groundcovers . . . if necessary and not previously done.
□ Prune hydrangea . . . Annabelle hydrangea can be pruned back to the ground and will flower on new wood. Japanese types, like Nikko Blue, bloom on last year's wood - so don't prune more than necessary to remove dead branches or branch tips.
□ Wait to prune these shrubs until after the blooms have faded . . . Azalea, cotoneaster, duetzia, forsythia, lilac, rhododendron, spirea, weigela. Promote new growth on forsythia by pruning out 1/3 of the oldest branches to the ground, after flowering.
□ Promote new growth . . . on forsythia by pruning out 1/3 of the oldest branches to the ground, after flowering.
□ Apply an acid-loving plant fertilizer . . . to magnolias, azaleas and rhododendrons.
□ Promote new growth . . . on forsythia by pruning 1/3 of the oldest branches to the ground, after flowering.
□ Control aphids . . . on tender new plant growth with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap, every few days for several applications.
□ Look for lacebug damage . . . on azaleas, pyracantha and pieris. You will see white stippling on the top of the leaves, and tiny, shiny black excrement spots on the undersides. Control with insecticidal soap applied to all plant parts, but especially the undersides of the leaves.
□ Control moles . . . in the lawn and garden by trapping. They are not able to consume baits or chewing gum, so avoid these useless control measures.